Kars - Turkey

Near to the Armenian border, Kars is about 30 km from the ancient capital of Armenia, Ani.

Earliest History

Bronze and Iron age settlements have been excavated on the site, so have possible Uruatian buildings. There is re-used classical masonry in the citadel walls and the remains of what is probably a Zoroastrian fire temple. Ani is first mentioned by Armenian chroniclers in the 5th century A.D. as a strong castle built on a hilltop and a possession of the Kamsarakan dynasty.

In the middle of the 7th century Armenia was invaded and conquered by the Arabs. The ethnic makeup of the population was little changed by this invasion, but it destroyed the existing power structures and paved the way for the eventual emergence of new ruling dynasties. By the end of the 9th century Armenia had regained most of her former independence - but was divided into numerous kingdoms and principalities. The two most powerful Armenian kingdoms were those of the Artzruni dynasty, who were based around Lake Van, and the Bagratid dynasty, who ruled most of north-eastern Armenia and who would eventually have their capital at Ani.

The Bagratid Period

The Bagratids bought the castle of Ani and its nearby estates from the Kamsarakans, and in the year 971 the Bagratid king Ashot III transferred his capital from Kars to Ani. At this time Ani was probably little more than a fortress town built around the citadel hill. King Ashot constructed new city walls across the narrowest point of the site, below and a little to the north of the citadel (there may have been older earthen ramparts along the same route). The city grew so quickly that the much larger outer walls to the north were completed by the year 989. The ruins that still extend beyond these walls prove that even they did not enclose a large enough area to contain the whole population.

Ani became an important crossroads for merchant caravans and the city controlled trade routes between Byzantium, Persia, Syria and central Asia. Merchants and craftsmen flocked to Ani from Armenia's older cities, accompanied by a flow of population from the rural areas of Armenia. In 992 the Armenian Katholikosat moved its seat to Ani: at the start of the 11th century there were 12 bishops, 40 monks and 500 priests in the city. By the 11th century the population of Ani was well over 100 000, perhaps as high as 200 000, and its wealth and renown was such that it was known as "the city of a thousand and one churches".

After King Gagik I died in 1020 his two sons quarrelled and fought over who should succeed him. The eldest son, Hovhannes-Sembat, gained control of Ani. His younger brother, Ashot, controlled other parts of the Bagratid kingdom. Hovhannes had supported the ruler of Georgia in that king's war against the expansionist Byzantine empire and he feared that the Byzantines would now attack the weakened Bagratid Kingdom. To try and avoid this he made the Byzantine emperor Basil the heir to his dominions.

Ani Under Byzantine Rule

King Hovhannes died in 1041, and the then Byzantine emperor Michael IV claimed sovereignty over Ani. Hovhannes had died childless so the people of Ani put forward the son of Ashot, Gagik II, as his successor. A Byzantine army sent to capture Ani was defeated in 1042. (Armenian chroniclers speak of Byzantine losses of more than 20,000 men, but Byzantine chroniclers are silent about the whole event). Pro-Byzantine Armenians in the city persuaded Gagik to go to Constantinople to sign a peace treaty; on arriving there Gagik was imprisoned. The Byzantines again attacked Ani, and again they were defeated, but in 1045 the city's population, realising that they were leaderless and surrounded by enemies, decided to surrender Ani to the Byzantines. King Gagik II was given a palace in Constantinople and the city of Caesarea (modern Kayseri) as compensation. After the Turkish invasions into the Byzantine empire, he was murdered in the Greek held castle of Cybistra in northern Cilicia. Constantine, the son of Rupen, one of Gagik's generals, was later to be the founder of the separate Armenian kingdom in Cilicia.

Ani Captured By the Turks

Raiding parties of Turks, originating from central Asia, began to reach Armenia and Byzantine Anatolia in the second half of the eleventh century. The Byzantine Empire was not successful in stopping the advance of the Turkish Seljuk armies that were ever increasing in size and in confidence. In the summer of 1064 a large Seljuk Turkish army attacked Ani, and after a siege
of 25 days they captured the city.
In the year 1071,
at the Battle of Manzikert, the Turkish armies won a decisive victory over a combined Byzantine and Armenian force, and the Byzantine emperor Romanus Diogenese was taken prisoner. There was now nothing to protect Armenia, and much of the Byzantine Empire, from the waves of Turkish invasions.

Ani Under Georgian Rule

In 1072 the Turks sold Ani to the Kurdish Shaddadid dynasty, who maintained a precarious hold of Ani until the end of the 12th century (loosing it several times to the Georgians or to internal rebellions by the city's still almost exclusively Armenian population). In the year 1200 the Georgian queen Tamara captured Ani and gave it to the Mkhargrdzeli family, whose territory eventually resembled that of the Bagratid kingdom in size. Under their rule Ani regained much of its former prosperity - several of the churches date from this period, as do many of the towers in the city walls. The region was invaded and occupied by the Mongols in 1237, but
after the usual killing
and looting some stability returned and the Mkhargrdzeli dynasty continued to rule Ani, only now as vassals of the Mongols rather than the Georgians. However, by the 1330s they had lost control of the city to a succession of Turkish dynasties, including the Kara Koyunlu (Black Sheep clan) who made Ani their capital.

The Decline and Death of Ani

The mass emigration of the population had started with the Mongol invasions. By the mid 14th century Ani had ceased to be a trading city and the remaining trade routes now passed further to the south. Tamerlane captured Ani in the 1380s, but on his death the Kara Koyunlu regained control. By then Ani was about to collapse as a city - the Kara Koyunlu transferred their capital to Yerevan (the Armenian Katholikosat did the same in 1441) and much of the city’s remaining population abandoned it. It is a myth (still propagated in many guide books about Turkey) that the city was abandoned after an earthquake in 1319.

Ani became part of the Ottoman Turkish empire in 1579. A small town still remained within its walls at least until the mid 17th century, and a European traveller in the early 17th century mentions the existence of 200 churches in Ani and the immediate neighbourhood. The final decline of Ani was accompanied by the desertion of the rural population as the region became over-run by nomadic Kurdish tribes who would rob and murder at will. The survival of any form of settled life, whether by Christians or Muslims, ultimately became unsustainable. The church at Kizkale was in use by monks at least until 1735, so the final and total abandonment of the site is probably the mid 18th century. By the beginning of the 19th century Ani was empty of human beings.

Kars

Kars, situated over 5,000 feet above sea level, is one of the coldest places in Turkey in the winter. The fortress, which was used from the time of the Urartians up to the more recent Russians, gives a great panoramic view of the town and surrounding areas.

The Cathedral of the Holy Apostles built in 937 A.D. was originally used as a church. However, after the Ottoman Era it was used as a mosque. The 15th century stone bridge, Tas Kopru, is also interesting. The Kars Museum houses artifacts mainly from nearby Ani.

The main reason to visit Kars is to head east and see the medieval metropolis of Ani. It is one of the most interesting sites in Eastern Turkey. At its peak, the city is said to have had close to 100,000 people living there. Ani’s golden age came during the reign of Gagik I (989 – 1020), when it rivaled Constantinople in fame. Many churches and civic buildings were built. In 1319, an earthquake devastated the city and it was soon abandoned.

Kars, Turkey

In the northeastern corner of the country, stands Kars, over a high plateau. The province, famous in Turkish history, lies at the foot of a magnificent fortress, the Kars Kalesi from the 12thcentury. This castle constructed by the Seljuks, was later restored in the 19th- century, and it affords a wonderful view of the land below. Nearby is an old cathedral which was subsequently used as a church, named as the Havariler Museum (the Church of the Apostles) where some relief of the Apostles can be seen.

One of the most important sights in Kars, is the Kars Museum, housing many archaeological finds from the earliest ages. Beautiful wood carvings, and a wide collection of coins found in the area are exhibited here, together with some ethnographic works of art, such as fine kilims, carpets and local costumes.

42 kms east of Kars, lies Ani, a fascinating medieval town, situated on the ancient Silk Road. This impressive place was once the capital of Urartians, later invaded by the Byzantines and the Mongols, and is located near the Arpacay stream which flows between the Turkish and Armenian Republics. The proximity of this ghost town to the border, places some restrictions on visitors, but the ruins of the mosques and numerous churches, together with the cathedral and the citadel, all inside city walls, are really worth seeing.

Fifty kilometers north of Kars, nature lovers may consider excursions to Lake Clidir, with its artificial island. This area, possessing many different kinds of fish and birds, is a naturepreserve, and it is a lovely spot for relaxation and picnicking. 53 kms from Kars, is Sankamls, another pretty town, which is a ski centre surrounded by large pine forests. It is an attractive resort with modern facilities, providing opportunities for every type of winter sport. Kagizman is famous for its rock reliefs belonging to the Neolithic Age. The Aras River canyon is full of wild, natural beauties. The other significant locations are Tuzluca for its salt caves, Gole for its meadows and Aygir Lake, Posof for its forests and mountains is heavenly and Digor where it is believed that the famous Turkish poet Dede Korkut lived.

Regarding the specialities of the region, folkloric values play an important role, and visitors will enjoy the traditional entertainment of rich and interesting folk dances. The kilims and carpets woven in the area are also famous for their colors and designs. Delicious honey is another specialty of Kars, and tasty "kasar" (Keshkawal) cheese is produced by the villagers in this city of pastures and dairy products.

Kars

Most people think of Kars as a remote frontier post, the bitter end of Eastern Turkey, but I like it. It's got interesting things to see, do and eat.

Most people--at least foreigners--also mispronounce its name. It's KARSS (rhymes with 'farce' and 'sparse'), not 'karze.' Now that that's settled...

Kars (alt. 1768 meters, 5800 feet, pop. 90,000), set on its high, chill plateau beneath a steel-grey sky, dominated by its stolid, forbidding citadel, does not immediately endear itself to the visitor, but give it a chance.

It holds an odd mix of interesting things to see: the Armenian Church of the Apostles (937 AD), the 15th-century Ottoman Stone Bridge (Tas Köprü), the grim Citadel (1579), a 19th-century Russian cathedral, and a good local museum.

The region produces some of Turkey's best butter and honey, and thick, rough but appealing carpets made with wool of different natural colors.

But most people come to Kars on the way to the ruins of Ani, the great medieval Armenian capital 45 km (28 miles) to the east on the Turkish-Armenian frontier.

You'll have to spend at least one night in Kars. Don't expect much from its hotels, though they can do for a night.

Kars is served by air, bus and train. Turkish Airlines has several flights weekly from Ankara to Kars, but many travelers fly to Erzurum instead and rent a car or take a bus to Kars. Virtually all long-distance bus service is via Erzurum. Minibuses will take you to Ardahan, Igdir or Sarikamis. To get to Yusufeli in the Kaçkar Mountains without your own car, you'll need to go via Erzurum.

Click here for info about crossing the border at Posof into Georgia.

Although the Dogu (Eastern) Express train travels to and from Istanbul several times per week, bus and plane are far faster. If you do go by train, it's a better idea to catch the train at Erzurum, and to reserve a place in a sleeping car.

By the way, Imperial Russia tried to grab eastern Turkish territory for centuries, and actually did grab Kars in 1878 and held it until 1920, which accounts for Kars's Russian-style buildings.

Kars - The Caucasus Gate

Kars is the city called the "Caucasus Gate" of Eastern Anatolia. The city was founded at the eastern side of the Kars Stream, which merges with the Arpacay. The city is composed of two parts, the Old Kars and the New Kars. The Old Kars was founded around the Kars Citadel, located on a hill to the north, and the core of it is formed by the Kaleici District. The New Kars which was founded after 1878, extends towards the plain. The significant difference between the new city, which was built according to a systematic plan, where the streets and avenues intersect each other perpendicularly, and the old city with its narrow and irregular streets, can be noticed readily. There are some structures built by the Russians in Kars. The city was occupied by the Russians three times in 1828, 1855 and 1877, and was under Russian sovereignty for approximately forty years during the third occupation.

The historical Kars Citadel, the symbol of the city, was constructed by Saltukoglu Izzeddin Han in 1152. The Citadel, which was repaired many times, has two sections, the inner section and the outer section. Only seven of the 220 towers have lasted until the present. The Museum of Apostles is located to the south of the Kars Citadel. The museum is an old church constructed for the 12 Apostles in the tenth century. There are reliefs of the twelve apostles between the exterior window arches of the building.

The most important historical city around Kars is Ani. Ani, which was founded as a fortress city, became the capital of the Bagratid Kingdom in the tenth century. The city walls in the ancient city, the Menucehr Mosque, the Seljuk Palace and the Museum-Churches of Nakisli, Keseli, the Virgin Mary and Abugamrents are worth seeing.

Kars is known for its rich folklore, carpets and kilims made by using natural dyes, kasar cheese and honey. The fact that various Turkish tribes lived in the region caused the folk music and dances to be very colorful and diverse.

Sarikamis, a county of Kars Province, is surrounded by forests and known for its natural beauties. The monument erected in memory of the Turkish martyrs who died during the First World War in Sarikamis and the Hunting Lodge built for the Russian Tsar Nikola are worth seeing. Sarikamis is at the same time the winter sports center of the entire region.

Ani - Kars

Kars, standing at an altitude of 1750 meters, has played an importantrole in Turkish history and was at the center of the Turkish-Russian War. The Russian legacycan still be seen in much of the Town's architecture. The lower city unfolds at the foot of an impressive Seljuk fortress of the 12th century. Nearby, the Havariler Museum (the 10th-century Church of the Apostles) reveals a curious mixtureof architectual influences. Bas-reliefs representing the twelveapostles in rather stiff and awkward poses, ring the exteriordrum of the dome. The Archaeological Museum houses beautiful wood-carvings, an excellent collection of coins found in the surrounding region, as well as many ethnographic items relating to eastern Turkey. Kars is particularly known for its distinctive kilims and carpets,and it retains a strong heritage of folk dancing. Visitors alwaysseem to enjoy this traditional entertainment. On the mountain pastures, villagers produce excellent Kasar cheese and delicious honey.
Forty-two kilometers east of the city on the ancient Silk Road, the medieval city of Ani (Ocakli) lies mostly in ruins. Impressive fortified walls still encircle the ruins of numerous churches, mosques and caravanserais. Sarikamis (53 km southwest of Kars) is a ski center with resort hotels, setin a scenic pine forest.
The Kur river divides Ardahan and separates the ancient parton one side and the new city on the other. A 16th - century castlebuilt by Sultan Selim the Grim, one of the most stately citadels in Turkey with 14 towers and a span of 745 meters, stands in the old part of the city.
Cildir takes its name from the nearby lake which lies at an altitude of 1965 meters. The scenic area around the lake provides a habitat for a fascinating variety of birds. In the lake, the man-made Akcakale Island was reputedly constructed with the labor of thousands; a temple with Urartian inscriptions remains. Seytan Kalesi (Devil's Castle) is near Cildir.
The city of Igdir stands on a large, fertile plain on which fruit and, unusually for this geographical region, cotton grow. The Bible relates that when the flood waters receded, Noah andhis family descended from Mount Agri (Ararat) toward the fertile Igdir plain. From here, their progeny settled tothe south and west along the Firat (Euphrates) and Dicle (Tigris) rivers, establishing the second generation of mankind. From this plain, you have the best view of Mount Agri. Monuments to visit near the city include Urartian rock monuments, a 13th - century Seljuk Caravanserai and the Karakale (Black Castle). In Karakoyun village, on the road between Igdir and Aralik, you should stop at the impressive 15th-century cemeteries with Karakoyun (ram and ewe) monumental tombstones.

Kars - Turkey

City, northeastern Turkey. Kars is situated on a plateau 5,740 feet (1,750 m) above sea level on the Kars River, a tributary of the Aras River, near the border with Armenia. The city, divided into an older upper section and a newer part to the south, stretches out on either side of the Kars River; the two sections of the city are linked by an ancient bridge built by the Seljuk Turks.
The seat of an independent Armenian principality during the 9th and 10th centuries, Kars was captured by the Seljuks in the 11th century. Taken by the Mongols in the 13th century and by Timur (Tamerlane) in 1387, it was incorporated into the Ottoman Empire in 1514. After withstanding a siege by Iranians in 1731 and successfully resisting the Russians in 1807, it fell to the Russians in 1828 and 1855 and was formally annexed by Russia in 1877-78. It was returned to Turkey in 1918, though the Soviet Union later (1945-47) tried unsuccessfully to reclaim it as part of Armenia, U.S.S.R.
Kars's historical buildings include Kümbet Camii ("Church of the Apostles"), an Armenian church that was converted into a mosque; a bath dating from the Ottoman period; and an old citadel overhanging the river that was once a strong military post (probably late 16th century). Kars is important as a center for trade in livestock and is also noted for its cheese. It also produces coarse woolens, carpets, and felts. An important military station, it is linked by rail and road with the principal Turkish cities.
The region around Kars was part of the Armenian kingdom in antiquity and contains a number of sites dating from that period. Ani, east of Kars city and near the Armenian frontier, was the Bagratid capital in the 10th century. Pop. (1990) 78,455.

ANI:
Ancient city site in extreme eastern Turkey. Ani lies east of Kars and along the Arpaçay (Akhuryan) River, which forms the border with Armenia to the east. Situated along a major east-west caravan route, Ani first rose to prominence in the 5th century AD and had become a flourishing town by the time Ashot III the Merciful (reigned 952-977), the Bagratid king of Armenia, transferred his capital there from Kars in 961. Thus began a golden age for the city, which was beautified under two subsequent Bagratid rulers. The many churches built there during this period included some of the finest examples of medieval architecture. With a peak population of about 100,000 by the early 11th century, Ani was larger than any European city and rivaled Baghdad, Cairo, and Constantinople in its size and magnificence. It remained the chief city of Armenia until Mongol raids in the 13th century and a devastating earthquake in 1319 sent it into an irreparable decline. Eventually the site was abandoned. The handful of surviving churches and the remnants of the city walls attest to the extraordinary quality of Armenian stonework during the Middle Ages. The modern Turkish village of Ocakli is nearby.
In the northeastern corner of the country, stands Kars, over a high plateau. The province, famous in Turkish history, lies at the foot of a magnificent fortress, the Kars Kalesi from the 12thcentury. This castle constructed by the Seljuks, was later restored in the 19th- century, and it affords a wonderful view of the land below. Nearby is an old cathedral which was subsequently used as a church, named as the Havariler Museum (the Church of the Apostles) where some relief of the Apostles can be seen.
One of the most important sights in Kars, is the Kars Museum, housing many archaeological finds from the earliest ages. Beautiful wood carvings, and a wide collection of coins found in the area are exhibited here, together with some ethnographic works of art, such as fine kilims, carpets and local costumes.
42 km east of Kars, lies Ani, a fascinating medieval town, situated on the ancient Silk Road. This impressive place was once the capital of Urartians, later invaded by the Byzantines and the Mongols, and is located near the Arpacay stream which flows between the Turkish and Armenian Republics. The proximity of this ghost town to the border, places some restrictions on visitors, but the ruins of the mosques and numerous churches, together with the cathedral and the citadel, all inside city walls, are really worth seeing.
Fifty kilometers north of Kars, nature lovers may consider excursions to Lake Clidir, with its artificial island. This area, possessing many different kinds of fish and birds, is a naturepreserve, and it is a lovely spot for relaxation and picnicking. 53 km from Kars, is Sankamls, another pretty town, which is a ski center surrounded by large pine forests. It is an attractive resort with modern facilities, providing opportunities for every type of winter sport. Kagizman is famous for its rock relief belonging to the Neolithic Age. The Aras River canyon is full of wild, natural beauties. The other significant locations are Tuzluca for its salt caves, Gole for its meadows and Aygir Lake, Posof for its forests and mountains is heavenly and Digor where it is believed that the famous Turkish poet Dede Korkut lived.
Regarding the specialties of the region, folkloric values play an important role, and visitors will enjoy the traditional entertainment of rich and interesting folk dances. The kilims and carpets woven in the area are also famous for their colors and designs. Delicious honey is another specialty of Kars, and tasty "kasar" (Keshkawal) cheese is produced by the villagers in this city of pastures and dairy products.

Kars

Kars is the capital of the province of the same name. Kars province has the highest concentration of Azeri population in Turkey. Azeris of Kars province speak Azeri but use Turkish as the literary language (there is also a large Kurdish community). Azeris are the descendants of immigrants arrived from Azerbaijan during the period 1878 to 1920. Today, in all there are about 640.000 Azeri speakers in Turkey. A consulate of Azerbaijan operates in Kars. Kars is situated at the junction of a plain and a mountain, at an altitude of 1750m in a sea of dry grass swept by the wind. The climate is rather severe, the winters are long and very cold, with temperatures going down to -30C, Summer is short and cool. The Turks named the place Kar-su "snow-water", due to the ponds formed by melting snow, which eventually was shortened to "Kars" - "Snow". Recently Kars has attracted a more attention than usual because Turkey's most famous novelist, Orhan Pamuk, used it as the setting for his novel "Snow".
The Kars river, a tributrary of the Araz, devides the city into an old upper section and a newer part to the south. The city has a population of about 80.000 and although there are manufactures of textiles and carpets the base for the local economy is agriculture, particularly stock breeding. The local honey and cheese are of the highest quality. The area is heavily militarized and checkpoints and ID controls are routine.
After years of Turkish presence the architecture of the city still retains some European traits, revealing its Russian legacy. The lower city unfolds at the foot of an impressive 12th century Seljuk fortress. The city has its own university (Kafkas Universitesi).
History: The region is one of the oldest human settled areas in Anatolia, with abundant pre-historical remains. Kars was the capital of Bagatrid Kingdom, an Armenian state of the 9th and 10th centuries. The Bagatrid were invaded first Byzantio and then by the Turks in the early 11th century. By the late 11th century Armenian dynasties re-emerged and ruled until the arrival of the Mongols. Ani was destroyed by Tamerlane in 1386 and was captured and rebuilt by the Ottoman Turks in the 16th century. It was reduced by the Persians to ruins in 1604 and again rebuilt. In 1731 it withstood a Persian siege and in 1808 resisted the Russian army. During the rest of the 19th century Kars was in the epicentre of the Russian-Turkish conflicts. In 1828-30, 1855, and 1877 the city returned to European rule under the Russian Empire, and it was ceded to Russia together with the surrounding territories by the congress of Berlin in 1878. A short lived Armenian republic was destroyed in 1920 in battles near Kars. By a peace treaty between the nationalist government of Kemal Ataturk and the USSR, Kars and Ardahan were given to Turkey. During their 41-year-long occupation, the Russians built many buildings and wide avenues, creating a grid layout unique in Turkey.
Main Sights: Church of the Holy Apostles and Kars museum, castle, caravansaray, Pasha palace, stone bridge, Evliya mosque, the baths, tomb of Celal Baba, Russian downtown. The old city, which was the Bagatrid capital is now a slum, clinging to the hillside across the Kars river.
The houses of Russian and Armenian merchants can still be seen, their fine construction and exterior decoration incongruous amongst the drab concrete buildings that now dominate the city. Many of these houses were pulled down in the 1960s - the government either not interested in the history of the town, or only too happy for it to be eradicated.
The city is served by its own airport, located 6km from the centre (airport code: KSY). Turkish airlines operates internal flights, allowing good international connections via Istanbul (Turkish airlines office: Sinir Turizm ve Seyhat Acentasi, Ataturk Caddesi, 80, tel. +90 474 2123838).
Kars is located at about 50km from the Armenian borders, and there is a rail and road border crossing between Kars and Armenia's second city Gyumri. However as a protest against Armenian military actions in the Nagorno Karabakh conflict, the Ankara government has ordered its closure. Nevertheless the local authorities have been pressing hard for its re-opening, so the situation my change soon. At present the only direct transportation between Turkey and Armenia are the Istanbul-Yerevan flights and a bus from Istanbul that reaches Yerevan by way of Trabzon and Georgia.
Outside Kars:
Ani: located 42 km east of Kars, near the Armenian border and the village of Ocakli, this ghost town, is the reason why many travellers visit Kars province. The ancient Armenian town was built on the barren plains above the Arpaçay valley, that today separates Turkey from Armenia. In its hey-day Ani had a population of over 100.000. Once an important station in the ancient silk road, serving as a trading post and caravanseray for merchants' camel caravans travelling between east and west. It was held by the Armenian Gamsaragan dynasty before it was acquired by Bagatrid kingdom, an Armenian state that established its dominance over most Armenian princes in the 9th century. It suceeded to Kars in 961 as capital of the Bagatrid kingdom. However the Bagatrid Kingdom was brought to an end by the eastward drive of the Byzantine empire, shortly before the Turkish invasion, in the early 11th century. Ani fell to the Mongols in the 13th century, who ransacked it and later Tamerlane rampaged through and mercilessly destroyed what was left. When the trade routes moved further south, the once bustling metropolis lost its revenue from trade and soon the entire province declined. It was again destroyed by earthquakes in the 14th century. The town is surrounded by imposing double ramparts with round towers. Inside the walls what remains today are several Armenian churches with amazing frescos, a Cathedral, a Georgian church, the Horomos Monastery, a ruined Seljuk palace, a couple of mosques and caravanserays.
Ani is still under Turkish military control. Though the site is advertised as a tourist attraction, visitors have to obtain permits from the tourism office, police and museum in nearby Kars. On arrival visitors are briefed by an armed soldier on where they may go. Troops patrol the site and use the ruins of a mosque as a look-out post. A ban on cameras was lifted recently, but photographers are not allowed to point their cameras in the direction of the border, on the other side you can see the European forces, Armenian soldiers maning their positions.
Horomots: located 10 km northeast of Ani, near the dam on the Arpa river, is a large monastery complex, almost as impressive as Ani but virtually unknown to tourists. It contains three well preserved churches of the 11th century (a few more are across the border). The monastery served as burial ground for the Kings of Ani and functioned as an important religious centre until the 18th century.
Sarikamis: Situated in a forest of giant pines, 55 km southwest of Kars, at 2250m, this ski centre has excellent courses and ideal snow conditions, the area is also noted for its hunting possibilities. Visitors can stay either in the town or at the 60-bed ski lodge, where a ski-lift and ski instructors are available. The snow conditions are at their best from November till April. Note that the area also has a strong military presence (the Turkish 3rd army) as well as endless rows of old Russian barracks.
Ardahan: the Kur river separates the new and old towns, the latter with a 16th century castle built by Sultan Selim the Grim, is one of the most stately citadels in Turkey, defended by 14 towers and with a span of 745 metres.
Mount Ararat (Agri / Aragats): located south east of Kars, it is composed of two peaks, Great Ararat the highest (5,165m tall) is the traditional site of the resting place of Noah's ark after the Flood (Genesis 8:4). Ararat is also remembered in Zoroastrianism, in the Aresta as (Aria Varda) meaning the birthplace of the Strongs. Southwest of the main mountain, the Little Ararat reaches up to 3896 meters. The Serdarbulak lava plateau (2600 m) stretches out between the two pinnacles. In the summer, the weather in the area and on Mount Ararat itself is sunny, warm and dry. However, in the winter and spring cold and harsh conditions prevail, and mountain climbers occasionally face blizzards and turbulent weather. July, August and September are the months when most world mountain climbers come to the area and when the climb up Ararat is most enjoyable. Despite the usual sunny and clear weather at that time of year, high altitude mountain weather prevails above 3000 meters. The southern face of the mountain offers the easiest and safest ascent to the summit with the best routes and communication, transportation and safety considerations. The Ararat is also visible from the Armenian side of the border.
Most of Great Ararat formed about 2 million years ago atop a block of uplifted rock during the Holocene Period; Little Ararat formed shortly thereafter. No eruptions have been recorded for either volcano. Nine glacial tongues escape downslope of Great Ararat from the permanent ice field, meet the snow line, melt, and produce streams. The rather high snow line, 4700 m, for a mountain this far north results from the dry surrounding region. Because of the lack of water, the area is relatively barren and uninhabited. From medieval accounts, the Ararat region was a beautiful, forest clad mountain with many human settlements and abundant wildlife; however, deforestation, overgrazing, and a destructive earthquake in 1840 have severely impacted the area. Because of fears of further earthquake activity and the very dry conditions, many inhabitants left the region and settled elsewhere.
Cildir: this town is near the lake of the same name. Lake Cildir, at an altitude of 1965 metres is located in a nature preserve, with the Akcakale artificial island and varied fauna and flora, an excellent area for outdoor activities. A temple with Urartrian inscriptions remains. Seytan (Satan) Castle is near Cildir.
Kagizman: place of famous Neolithic stone engravings, located on a breathtaking canyon
Tozluca: location of salt caves, near the river Aras

Kars History

History
The early history of Kars is little known, beyond the fact that it had its own dynasty of Armenian rulers and was the capital of a region known as Vanand. At some point in the 9th century (at least by 888) it became part of the territory of the Armenian Bagratids. For a short time (from 928 to 961) Kars became the capital of their kingdom. It was during this period that the Cathedral, later known as the Church of the Apostles, was built.
In 963, shortly after the Bagratid capital was transferred to Ani, Kars became the capital of a separate independent kingdom, again called Vanand. However, the extent of its actual independence from the Kingdom of Ani is uncertain. For example, it was always held by relatives of the rulers of Ani, and after Ani's capture by the Byzantine Empire in 1045 the Bagratid royal title "King of Kings" held by the ruler of Ani was transferred to the ruler of Kars.
In 1064, just after the capture of Ani by the Seljuk Turks, the last Armenian king of Kars, Gagik II, paid homage to the victorious Turks to avoid them laying siege to his city. In 1065 Gagik ceded control of Kars to the Byzantine Empire, but soon afterwards they lost it to the Seljuk Turks. In 1207 the city was captured by the Georgians and given to the same Mkhargrdzeli family who ruled Ani. They retained control of Kars until the late 1230s, after which it was ruled by a series of petty Turkish emirs.
In 1387 the city surrendered to Timur (Tamerlane) and its fortifications were slighted. More petty Turkish emirs followed until 1534, when the Ottoman army captured the city. The fortifications of the city were rebuilt by the Ottoman Sultan Murad III and were strong enough to withstand a siege by Nadir Shah of Persia, in 1731. In 1807 it successfully resisted the Russians, but after another siege in 1828 it was surrendered on June 23, 1828 to the Russian general Count Ivan Paskevich, 11,000 men becoming prisoners of war. Although it was afterwards returned to Turkey, the new border between Turkey and Russia lay much closer to Kars. During the Crimean War the Turkish garrison, led by General William Fenwick Williams and other foreign officers, kept the Russians at bay during a protracted siege; but after the garrison had been devastated by cholera and food had utterly failed, nothing was left but to surrender in November of 1855. The fortress was again stormed by the Russians in the Battle of Kars during the Russo-Turkish War, 1877-78 under generals Loris-Melikov and Ivan Lazarev and on its conclusion was transferred to Russia by the Treaty of San Stefano.
A hand drawn illustration of Kars in 1917 by an Armenian. The river which led to Erzurum can be seen on the upper left. On the upper right can be seen three red domed structures, marked by a number one, which are outdoor lavatories. The citadel can be seen on the right. Note the two large domed Armenian churches in the middle and lower section of the picture.After the subjection to Russia more than 82000 Muslims emigrated to Turkey within the period of 1878-1881, of them more than 11 000 left the city itself. At the same time, many Armenians, Greeks and Russians migrated to the region from other regions of Turkey and Transcaucasia. According to the Russian census data, by 1892 Russians made 7%, Greeks 13.5%, Kurds 15%, Armenians 21,5%, Turks 24%, Azerbaijani Karapapakhs 14%, and Turkmen 5% of the population of Kars oblast of the Russian empire.
Russia lost Kars, Ardahan and Batum by the Treaty of Brest-Litovsk on March 3, 1918. The Turks took back control in Kars on April 25, 1918 and the Republic of Southwest Caucasus was established in the zone, but when the Armistice of Mudros (October 1918) was established the Ottoman army withdrew to the frontiers of 1914. The British occupied Batum but the Ottomans refused to relinquish Kars; its military governor constituted a provisional government led by Fahrettin Pirioglu that claimed Turkish sovereignty over Kars and the Turkish-speaking and Islamic neighbouring regions to Batum and Alexandropol (Gyumri). The region was occupied by the Democratic Republic of Armenia (DRA) in January 1919 but the pro-Turkish government remained in the city until the arrival of the British troops, who dissolved it on April 19, 1919, sending its leaders to Malta. May 1919, Kars came under full administration of the DRA and became the capital of the Vanand province (named after the historic Armenian region that the city was once the capital of).
However, skirmishes between Turkish revolutionaries and Armenian border troops in Oltu, led to an invasion of the DRA by four Turkish battalions under the command of General Kazım Karabekir, thus triggering the Turkish-Armenian War. The Turkish-Armenian War led to the collpase of the DRA and resulted in the Treaty of Alexandropol signed by the representatives of the DRA and Turkey on December 2, 1920. The treaty's terms forced the DRA to cede more than 50% of its pre-war territory and to give up all the territories granted to it at the Treaty of Sèvres. However, with the Bolshevik invasion of Armenia, the Alexandropol treaty was superseded by the Treaty of Kars (October 23, 1921), signed between Turkey and the newly-established Soviet Union. The treaty allowed for Soviet annexation of Adjara in exchange for Turkish control over the regions of Kars, Iğdır, and Ardahan. The treaty established peaceful relations between the two nations, but as early as 1939, some British diplomats noted indications that the Soviet Union was not satisfied with the established border. On more than one occasion, the Soviets attempted to renegotiate with Turkey to at least allow the Armenians access to the ancient ruins of Ani. However, Ankara refused these attempts.
After World War II, the Soviet Union attempted to annul the Kars treaty and regain its lost territory. On June 7, 1945, Soviet Foreign Minister Vyacheslav Molotov told the Turkish ambassador in Moscow that the regions should be returned to the Soviet Union, in the name of both the Georgian and Armenian republics. Turkey found itself in a difficult position: it wanted good relations with the Soviet Union but at the same time they refused to give up the territories. Turkey itself was in no condition to fight a war with the Soviet Union which had emerged as a superpower after the second world war. By the autumn of 1945, Soviet troops in the Caucasus were already assembling for a possible invasion of Turkey. However opposition stemmed from British leader Winston Churchill who objected to these territorial claims as additional areas of where the Soviet government could exert its influence while President of the United States Harry S. Truman of the United States felt that matter shouldn't concern other parties. The Cold War was just beginning.
Since the Nagorno-Karabakh War, the borders between Armenia and Turkey have been closed. Kars Mayor Naif Alibeyoğlu, believes that the border should be opened again and that there should be no nationalist sentiment against the Armenians.

Kars Citadel

Kars CitadelKars Castle (Kars Kalesi) also known as the Kars citadel) sits at the top a rocky hill overlooking Kars. Its walls date back to the Bagratid Armenian period (there is surviving masonry on the north side of the castle) but it probably took on its present form during the 13th century when Kars was ruled by the Zakarid dynasty. The walls bear crosses in several places, including a khachkar with a building inscription in Armenian on the easternmost tower, so the much repeated statement that Kars kastle was built by Ottoman Sultan Murad III during the war with Persia, at the close of the 16th century, is false. However, Sultan Murad probably did reconstruct much of the city walls (they are similar to those that the Ottoman army constructed at Ardahan).
Other Historical StructuresBelow the castle is an Armenian church known as the St. Arak'elos Cathedral, the Church of the Apostles. Built in the 10th century, it constitutes a domed tetraconch atop a square base with four apses. The drum of the dome features bas relief depictions of The Twelve Apostles and the dome itself is covered by a conical roof. It housed a small museum in the 1960s and 1970s, then stood derelict for about two decades until its conversion into a mosque in 1998.
As a settlement at the juncture of Armenian, Caucasian, Russian, and Turkish cultures, the buildings of Kars come in a variety of architectural styles.

Kars Architecture

Kars is one of most important border city of Turkey Republic.Most of Kars's extant buildings have constructed at time of Russian occupation between 1878 - 1918.When these structures have built, black hewn stone has been used.

Kars is civilized city of East Anatolia

Kars has a rich at cultural heritage.Many civilizations had controlled this region since 9000 B.C.We still see their remainings.Dede Korkut stories which is a great source of Turkish literature has arised on Kars's lands and spread.

Kars

Kars, standing at an altitude of 1750 meters in Eastern Anatolia, has played an important role in Turkish history and was at the center of the Turkish-Russian War. The Russian legacy can still be seen in much of the town's architecture. The lower city unfolds at the foot of an impressive Seljuk fortress of the 12th century. Nearby, the Havariler Museum (the 10th century Church of the Apostles) reveals a curious mixture of architectural influences. Bas-reliefs representing the twelve apostles in rather stiff and awkward poses, ring the exterior drum of the dome.
The Archaeological Museum houses beautiful wood-carvings, an excellent collection of coins found in the surrounding region, as well as many ethnographic items relating to eastern Turkey. Kars is particularly known for its distinctive kilims and carpets, and it retains a strong heritage of folk dancing. Visitors always seem to enjoy this traditional entertainment. On the mountain pastures, villagers produce excellent Kasar cheese (yellow cheese) and delicious honey.
The Kur river divides Ardahan and separates the ancient part on one side and the new city on the other. A 16th century castle built by Sultan Selim the Grim, one of the most stately citadels in Turkey with 14 towers and a span of 745 meters, stands in the old part of the city.
Cildir takes its name from the nearby lake which lies at an altitude of 1965 meters. The scenic area around the lake provides a habitat for a fascinating variety of birds. In the lake, the man-made Akcakale Island was reputedly constructed with the labor of thousands; a temple with Urartian inscriptions remains. Seytan Kalesi (Devil's Castle) is near Cildir.
Sarikamis (53 km southwest of Kars) is a ski center with resort hotels, setting of a scenic pine forest. On 19th of October 2004 Allahüekber Mountains were declared as the 34th National Park of Turkey by the Government so it's believed that it will attract more visitors and help to the local economy as well.

Ani Archaeological Site

Forty-two kilometers east of the city on the ancient Silk Road, the medieval city of Ani (Ocakli) lies mostly in ruins. Impressive fortified walls still encircle the ruins of numerous churches, mosques and caravanserais.
Although the ancient settlement of Ani began as an Armenian settlement, had endured waves of successive conquerors; Muslims, Byzantines, Mongols, among them. It was not until the Mongol rule of Asia Minor that the city was abandoned. In 1336, the mostly Armenian citizens were forced to leave and Ani was never again inhabited.
Among the structures left behind were proto-Gothic-style churches that may predate by 125 years Europe's first realization of the form, palaces, crenellated defensive walls, a bridge, even an early post office. For the centuries before its abandonment, the city had been a medieval capital of political, economic, cultural, and architectural importance. The site is vulnerable to earthquakes, harsh weather and winds, vegetation growth etc.
Grants from the Samuel H. Kress Foundation enabled an on-site assessment by experts to take place in order to establish preservation priorities. Funds are being solicited for emergency stabilization. Expert masons and conservators are needed for restorations on site.
Ani was listed in 1996 and 1998 as one of the 100 most endangered sites of the world by World Monuments Fund.